Timing suggestions and burnouts?, 73 Dodge Dart Swinger timing Options

[dartswinger8]

I know for a fact the timing on my Dart is a bit off and I am going to borrow a timing light from my shop to do a bit of a tuneup to it, if I get the timing down on it to close to perfect I'll be happy, but I was also wondering about how to properly do a good burnout in a rear wheel drive without pushing the motor to hard, old school muscle lovers can ya help me out?

[jim77070]

Help me out here a bit, which engine, trans and rear end gear ratio are you running? Power disc or manual drum brakes? If you have a 340 4-spd w/3.55 posi and manual brakes it should be relatively easy.

[dartswinger8]

I dont actually know that much bout the tech stuff cause I do bodywork mostly but I know its got a 318 V8 and 727 Tranny and its automatic, thats bout it for now til i get it up on the lift at school to get a better look

[193rdsow]

I dont actually know that much bout the tech stuff cause I do bodywork mostly but I know its got a 318 V8 and 727 Tranny and its automatic, thats bout it for now til i get it up on the lift at school to get a better look

It won't be easy. I have an AAR with a 727 /3.55 posi and struggle to get a good burn out. Small blocks need RPM to generate the torque to break the wheels loose, so you either need to change torque converter or change rear gears. Good Luck!

[Charger1967]

Do you have a "brake/line lock" at the rear brake?!
I mean this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/B-M-46075-B...sQ5fAccessories

[BombFactory]

No offense to the previous posters, but you guys are making a burnout way too complicated. You're not going to hurt an engine doing a burnout if you don't over-rev it. You will do more damage to the transmission bands/plates than anything on an automatic. Unfortunately, as some have mentioned above, a stock 318/727 doesn't have much power for a burnout. It is quite simple:

First and foremost, find an empty parking lot where you won't hit anything or bring the fuzz down on you!
1. Make sure there is nothing in front of or around you.
2. Put the transmission in 1st gear.
3. Compress the brake pedal just enough to hold the car while loading the engine.
4. Smoothly bring the engine rpm up until the wheel(s) breaks loose. If the car tries to move forward, apply a little more brake pressure.
5. Once the tire(s) is/are spinning, either sit there and melt your tires or give it gas and let off the brakes, shifting as needed (don't loop it, or do if you've got the room). Careful when burning out while gassing it and moving, as the engine will rev up quickly, and it is easy to over-rev it at this point.

If you are sitting there reving the engine to the point where the wheels don't spin but the brakes won't hold the car from moving forward even when pressing the heck out of the pedal, the engine doesn't quite have enough power to get the job done. Sure, different gearing, or better yet a different engine, would help, but I certainly wouldn't swap out gears, torque converter, install a line lock, or build a higher power engine just to do burnouts.

P.S. A line lock doesn't go on on the rear brake line; it holds pressure on the front brakes so that the rear brakes are free.

[jim77070]

Hey, if I can do it with my 74 Charger Rallye 318 2-bbl low performance version with a 904 automatic, anyone should be able to do it.

[Tha Driver]

I never put a timing light on any of my old Mopars. I advance the timing until it kicks back starting it, then retard it until it starts fine. Then drive it & if it doesn't spark knock lugging it up a hill in high gear, leave it. If it knocks, retard it until it quits. This way you have the maximum advance that the engine can use & not hurt it. Keep in mind, if you do this with high octane gas you cannot run regular gas in it. But with hi-octane & max advance you get more power & better gas mileage.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both. - Benjamin Franklin