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Nov 3 2009, 07:47 AM
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#1
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![]() Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 12 Joined: 3-November 09 From: Sweden Member No.: 6,024 |
Hi everybody.
My name is Mikael and im from Sweden. You know, the cold and dark country up in the north. I just purcaste a Newport that im gonna try to restore in a better shape then today. 1968 Chrysler Newport, 300, New Yorker Convertible C Line Chrysler Newport, 300, New Yorker E Class Economy 27 Body Convertible G Engine V8 383 CID 1-2BBL "B" 8 Year 1968 C Assembly Jefferson, Michigan This is what i got so far. It has an 383 recently rebuilt with an edelbrock 4v carb ontop. The trans 727 is rebuilt too as i has been told. It has a brand new convertibletop in black. The plans for now is to get the taillights and parklights to work. Also a light touch with some kint of rustproofepaint under the carpets etc etc. After that we have to see what comes up in mind. //Bigswede
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Newport1.JPG ( 208.16K )
Number of downloads: 4
CIMG1016.JPG ( 233.76K )
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CIMG1028.JPG ( 185.55K )
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Nov 3 2009, 07:36 PM
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#2
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 64 Joined: 26-October 09 From: Munich / Germany Member No.: 5,986 |
Nice Mopar!
![]() Show us pictures from your resto. -------------------- |
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Nov 4 2009, 06:29 AM
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 94 Joined: 5-July 09 From: middletown n y Member No.: 5,378 |
very nice. my dad had one, but hardtop. thats the car i took for my road test at 16. 3 point turn paralle parking. past it. loved it.
-------------------- what the ?!?!?!. 71 rr, 66 sport fury, 70 superbee, 74 duster, 69a100
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Nov 4 2009, 11:13 AM
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#4
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Administrators Posts: 789 Joined: 5-August 07 From: Connecticut Member No.: 2,113 |
Your Newport looks to be in very nice condition. Definitely a cool car to have
I had a 69 Newport Custom when I was in high school, but that was an entirely different body style. Sure had a lot of good times with that car. |
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Nov 4 2009, 11:25 PM
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#5
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,750 Joined: 29-November 07 From: gun barrel city texas Member No.: 2,634 |
i had one of those white with black interior, black drop top. 1978 galveston tx, just drive onto the west beach and somehow it would automatically fill with pretty girls in bikinis
-------------------- it aint how hard the problem is, its how hard you are willing to study to find the cause and then fix it- flap- 11-7-09
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Nov 5 2009, 08:16 AM
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#6
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![]() Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 12 Joined: 3-November 09 From: Sweden Member No.: 6,024 |
Well here in Sweden its more likely to get som girls with big jackets and wintergloves etc....
Got a nice surprise last night when we removed all seats and the carpet. Didnt seem to be so much rust after all. Thats great. I really dont enjoy welding in old cars with alot of rust so now it feels good. Just some surfacerust and that will be removed with a steelbrush on the powerdrill. Some bodypaint to protect it from new rust.
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Nov 5 2009, 01:17 PM
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#7
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![]() Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 12 Joined: 3-November 09 From: Sweden Member No.: 6,024 |
Tonight i have been out in the workshop and fiddled around with the electrical system, mainly for the headlights.
The lowbeam is very yellow and not so bright at all, the highbeam doesnt work at all. When i push the floorswitch into highbeam the panel-light for highbeam ( a red lamp) and the light for leftturnsignal is glowing in the dash. This isnt the way it should be so i started to seek for the reason and i have come to the conclusion that the big connector trough the firewall is the thief here. Now i have applied some elecronic cleaner on the connectors and i hope it will solve this. The connector wasnt in a good shape, it had alot of rust and i belive this doesnt give so much contact between the metalpins. I have also taken out the switch for the lights from the dashboard and ofcourse i had to put it apart and cleaned every part of it inside just to be shure its fullcontact between all parts as it should be. Sorry but i didnt had access to my camera but i will try to take some pics tomorrow instead. |
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Nov 8 2009, 12:44 AM
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#8
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,750 Joined: 29-November 07 From: gun barrel city texas Member No.: 2,634 |
that item is called the bulkhead connector and it is usually the prime suspect in all mopar electrical problems. ive fixed them by dippin both sides into scale remover ( acid wash) and then using a pair of needle nose pliers to gently crimp the female side back tight. use di-electric grease to keep it from happening again
good luck my friend if you have problems you need help with, post them in the forum labeled ''tech'' lot of good folks there that will be happy to help you with what they know including parts resources -------------------- it aint how hard the problem is, its how hard you are willing to study to find the cause and then fix it- flap- 11-7-09
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Nov 8 2009, 08:58 AM
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#9
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 64 Joined: 26-October 09 From: Munich / Germany Member No.: 5,986 |
@Bigswede
I am still restoring my engine and electric-wires. Its better to replace the part. I bought a new "bulkhead connector incl. 60 terminals (male/female)" from a seller at ebay. If you want i send you the link. -------------------- |
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Nov 13 2009, 05:36 AM
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#10
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![]() Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 12 Joined: 3-November 09 From: Sweden Member No.: 6,024 |
Hi everybody.
Sorry for not update this thread so much but me and my family has been in fever and almost all time in bed. Now i have spend some time in the workshop and sorted out some electrical things. The headlight runs so sweet now. The bulkheadconnector was a big troublemaker but i guess it is good now. I added some relays to low n highbeam so i dont have to put so much amp through the lightswitch. I also sorted out the signallights in the dashboard and now thats left is the brakelight and turnsignal in fronbumper. //Bigswede |
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Nov 13 2009, 11:18 AM
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#11
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,750 Joined: 29-November 07 From: gun barrel city texas Member No.: 2,634 |
Bigswede you take care of the health first , then the car . a mopar understands that you nurse it back to health, it will return the favor
-------------------- it aint how hard the problem is, its how hard you are willing to study to find the cause and then fix it- flap- 11-7-09
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Nov 14 2009, 07:34 AM
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#12
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![]() Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 12 Joined: 3-November 09 From: Sweden Member No.: 6,024 |
Today its Saturday and its raining. +2 degrees Celsius ( dont know what that is in farenheit but the water freezes around zero) so its a perfect day to work on my car.
I was devistated cause i got stuck yesterday with the electrical. Today i started to just tare everything apart... Well it feels like thats the way to go. I pulled out the steeringwheel, loosen the connector under the dashboard that serves the turnsignal. Pull out the plastic plate and arghhh. Its not the kind of plate that you are supposed to take apart. Well well no mercy. I forced it apart and gosh it was alot of rust on every metalpart. Now we talk ALOT. There is 2 springs that connects the different lights depending what way you pull the lever. Those two was gone so i manufactured a couple new ones. I also changed the violet and the white cable to new ones cause there was a bad connection in the old ones. Alot of electrical cleaner on the contactsurface and simply put everything back in place. It took a little time to put the plastic pieces together again but shame to give up. The price for this mornings work is that now everything is working except the fenderlights. Thats to sort out this evening. I take my two pals with me out in the workshop, jack and johnny. Think the last name was daniels and walker but who cares... I ll be back with the eveningreport. |
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Nov 15 2009, 09:52 PM
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#13
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,612 Joined: 19-September 06 From: Houston Texas USA Member No.: 59 |
It's been awhile and no reply from the Big Swede. I suspect he may have been kicked in the head by that No. 7 mule and suffering from the spinning bed syndrome! Previous experience has shown that praying to the porcelian throne doesn't stop the Gods playing spin the room with your eyes.
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Nov 16 2009, 06:22 AM
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#14
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,750 Joined: 29-November 07 From: gun barrel city texas Member No.: 2,634 |
glad to hear you got the lights goin swede
fahrenheit converter - http://www.wbuf.noaa.gov/tempfc.htm +2 c= 34 degrees f roughly the fender lights have a connection at the firewall if you mean the lights on top of the fender, if you mean the ones on the side close to the bumper, they are connected differently . both have one thing in common, they are bad about losing ground connection due to rust or corrosion the ones on top the fender are called signal indicator lights, the ones down on the side are called side marker lights -------------------- it aint how hard the problem is, its how hard you are willing to study to find the cause and then fix it- flap- 11-7-09
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| Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 20th November 2009 - 06:56 PM |